I had so much fun discovering the history and details of Hawaiian quilting that I wanted to look at other needlework traditions.

Today I want to discuss (or introduce you to) Sashiko, the ancient Japanese stitching process. As much as we like to think we in the US have a long standing quilting background, the Japanese technique of Sashiko has lasted for centuries, beginning in the Edo Era or early modern Feudal Society that prevailed from 1615-1868.

The term Sashiko translates from Japanese as "little stabs". Sashiko stitching is made up of repeating or interlocking patterns of running stitches, traditionally done using white Sashiko thread on an indigo background.

Sashiko originated as a darning technique for mending and reinforcing boro clothing, among Japan's working class poor in the countryside.

Japanese farmers' clothes and household items were made of dark indigo cloth – homespun and handwoven linen, hemp, and ramie. As the cloth on a piece of clothing wore out, new pieces of cloth were added with stab stitches. Durability of fabric was of the essence – fabric had to last as long as possible, and was repurposed as needed in order to keep using it until it was totally worn out and unable to be stitched back into usefulness.

Each layer added and the extra stitches made the item warmer and sturdier. Eventually the stitches were made in decorative patterns or geometric designs to make them more attractive.

As a larger piece of clothing wore down to the point of no longer being salvageable with sashiko stitching, it would be repurposed into smaller useable items. Pieces of a jacket could end up as shoe soles, floor cushions or part of a quilt bed covering. The Japanese word, “mottainai”, means “too good to waste”. This makes me think of my “mighty savin’” mother and all our pioneer

forbears. Boro is the name for the fabric made as a result of continuous & ultimate repetition of Sashiko.

This thrift and repurposing has transposed into an idea that is especially popular today.

These are modern applications of sashiko that reinforce and enhance clothing. Below are some traditional sashiko patterns that can be used for this kind of reinforcement or just as a decorative accent.

Another development in Japanese quilting styles is yosegire, which basically translates to patchwork. Fabric was such a valuable commodity, sometimes being used as currency, so every little piece was precious. They would piece them together to create fancy clothing items. This transformed into freeform
improvisational quilting.

Some of these remind me of the Gee’s Bend quilts in their use of color and shape.

Since the 70’s there has been a boom in Japanese quilting that incorporates the more Western styles and many times the prize winning quilts in American quilt competitions have been spectacular Japanese quilts. They often have a slightly different look and view of even what we think of as traditional patterns.

This stunner, shown with a closeup, has hundreds of little "bubbles", all made from kimono fabrics.

This quilt is called “Stalactites” and random and varied pieces give this example tons of texture. The close up shows the unique quilting style.

The Breeching Whale quilt below features tiny pieces and intricate quilting that made it a big winner.

This delightful quilt incorporates embroidery, yoshigire, shashiko and a random, free style that takes some time to appreciate all of the detail.

And this last example if a perfect demonstration of all the fantastic qualities of Japanese quilts. The quilting also has a sense of the Hawaiian style of echoed rows of quilting to highlight the design.

I hope this gets you excited to dive into different cultures and see what you can incorporate into your quilts!

— Queen Bee

Here are some tips to get you started with Sashiko:

1. Start with Traditional Patterns: Sashiko quilting often features simple, repetitive geometric or nature-inspired patterns such as waves, diamonds, or cherry blossoms. Begin with traditional designs, and as you gain confidence, you can incorporate more complex or personalized motifs.
2. Choose Contrasting Colors: Classic Sashiko uses white or light thread on dark indigo fabric, creating high contrast that highlights the intricate stitching. You can experiment with other contrasting color combinations to modernize your design while honoring the traditional aesthetic.
3. Focus on Precision: Sashiko stitching is meant to be even and uniform, so take your time to ensure consistency. Mark your pattern with chalk or a washable fabric pen to help guide your stitches and keep the design balanced.
4. Use Authentic Materials: For an authentic feel, use Sashiko thread, which is slightly thicker than standard embroidery thread, and a long Sashiko needle. These tools are designed to glide through fabric smoothly, making the process easier and the stitches more uniform.
5. Incorporate Negative Space: Sashiko often uses negative space to emphasize the stitching. Keep your quilt’s design minimalistic and let the handwork shine. Large, open areas between motifs allow the detailed stitching to take center stage.

These tips will help you embrace the elegance and simplicity of Sashiko while creating a beautiful and meaningful quilt.

Featured YouTube Video

Introduction to Sashiko Quilting

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